A Tradition: Ringing in the New Year

ctually, I cannot recall with great certainty whether it was on NYE when I went to the Higashiyama area to see Gion and Pontocho Alley. So I decided not to talk about that anymore -- but just my favorite view in that area which is the Kamogawa river near Pontocho.

I enjoyed myself so much people-watching there. It was like hanging out with myself by the bridge over the stretch of Kamogawa river. Although I really wished that time I have someone to talk to
while taking in the views. But it is also nice to have you all to yourself sometimes, being fortunate to be able to hear you and give feedback to yourself.

I went back to the hostel and found a few travelers in the pantry area. The tall, dark (shall I say handsome too? But yeah he is a looker) man was smiling so I smiled in return. He was the same guy I

mentioned that I saw on my first day in Kyoto. There was another guy, a tall and blonde-haired guy sitting in the long table. I forgot who started the conversation first. If it was me, I likely have said "Happy New Year, guys!" I think the two have responded and smiled.

The brown-skinned guy is Eduardo and the white guy is Jochen. Eduardo is from Sao Paolo and Jochen is from Germany. Eduardo is a biologist and Jochen, a mechanical engineering student. I think it was Eduardo who asked us what are we up to later that evening. Playing "pa-bibo," I immediately told them about my plans on taking part in bell-ringing on one of the nearby temples -- a Japanese (buddhist) tradition during NYE. The two of them seemed interested enough on my plans for the evening and we agreed on a particular time to go out.

We did our own personal stuff for the remaining hours. Me, I took a nap and responded to the email of "someone" from Manila who was checking on me to see if I am okay and how was my trip. I told him I was homesick the past few days. At about 430 in the afternoon, I did my ritual of doing a hot soak.

Now I have a funny story here -- I saw Jochen rushing to the bathroom suite where there is a tub -- but with a stroke of luck, I got in first! Hahaha! I'm sorry, Jochen. Ladies go first, they say.

The Pursuit of Joya no Kane 

It was time to go out. Dinner first. Our NYE dinner. Jochen suggested a place he discovered a few days back, Chabano -- a place where we can taste authentic okonomiyaki. The place was quintessentially Japanese: red Japanese curtains (I think), warm lights, wooden door, walls and chairs, a cook wearing traditional Japanese apron, open kitchen, narrow wooden stairs, a poster of a Geisha (I preume), old Japanese newspapers and receipts (I think) pinned to the walls (or maybe they were letters), wooden floor on the second floor dining, floor-seating, thin pillows as seating pads, jalousie windows.

I can smell the okomiyaki downstairs. It could be a different menu but the smell is the same -- smokey and rich and very umami. When we came upstairs, we were the only customers by 8 pm. Jochen sat first. Eduardo then asked me if it is okay that he sat next to Jochen. I said it was fine. I am surprised by his gesture -- like it is unnecessary to ask.

I pity the two guys because they have very long legs and being in a floor-seating setup, the table is set very low. I can't imagine how they were able to manage it, though I am quite sure they are enjoying the experience, too.

A plump girl came for our orders. She looked very busy. We agreed on getting an okonomiyaki for each of us and our own choice of sake. Choices for okonomiyaki were meat (pork and beef) and seafood, while for sake, there were hot and cold options. Also, I think Jochen got an extra beer for himself. Actually I think the both of them did.

The two were like "Wow, we actually have an international dinner or a united nations gathering of some sort." Really, it was a pleasure to have each other's presence -- all three of us having different cultures.

Though it seemed perfect in the beginning, this is also the part that I somehow regret because our orders took a very long time. I was pissed when there was even a group of Japanese office workers who sat next to our table and was given food ahead of us. And since it took us a long time, we were so late to be accommodated to any bell-ringing events in the area. Their cut-off was 10 pm. The two guys kept their cool but me -- deep inside I was getting very impatient and wanted to blame Jochen for picking such a place.

We went on to head to Chion-in temple (my first option according to my notes). It was a priority on my list since I learned that it houses the largest temple bell in Japan and I wanted to see in person how enormous it could be. The temple is just north of Yasaka Shrine in the Higashiyama area so it should be easy to find. Chion-in is a well-regarded temple and was even called the Vatican of Pure Land Buddhism.

At first, it was dark and there were just the three of us on the streets. I was gravely mistaken when I initially thought Jochen to be a timid guy. We just started our journey when he started to goof around. He hooked the white umbrella he was carrying on my small backpack. "What the hell?" I was almost shocked in disbelief.

I don't know what to make of it -- is he ashamed of carrying an umbrella? Eduardo was surprised, too -- and was constantly telling him to stop it and that he need to respect people of different cultures and that he need to be a gentleman. But he didn't heed that comment. Of course, I got annoyed and told him how annoying he is. He just continued pissing me off. He was acting completely like a kid, it's not funny. Definitely, the least of my favorites is to be made fun of.

It was sure a long walk. We were rather dumbfounded when we reached the main streets of Kyoto to see that the roads were closed and there was a huge crowd that people look like sardines. This was in front of the Yasaka Shrine. We realized we were so late.

Coffee shops were full with locals who are waiting for sunrise so they can line up for New Year's blessings at shrines, and those who were late (like us) -- nowhere to go because both shrines and temples are full of people already lined up and occupied the roads.

Some police officers are present and were trying to organize such a huge crowd. Some areas were lined with ropes which made it harder for us to navigate -- we are trying to find our way to Chion-in. Even then, we were able to find an exit but at a farther route.

When we reached the gate of the Chion-in, we started to hear the beautiful sound that the bell created. We know we are late and there is nothing more that we can do. And I think it was already midnight and so Eduardo opened the sparkling drink he purchased at one convenience store (there was no wine available from convenience stores that is). We just laughed at ourselves and greeted each other "Happy New Year!"

The way back is too troublesome as there were no more modes of transportation available. We hopped on a train but we still did a lot of walking of more or less 30 minutes which is grueling to be honest.

I remember while we were on the subway, I asked them what their traditions in their own countries were during NYE. I told them in the Philippines, it is loud and quite colorful (because of the fireworks). They both said that one of their traditions was to kiss someone at midnight in order for them to be lucky for the new year. I said, "I see". I did not anymore ask follow-up questions.

Let me tell you we became instant BFFs, Jochen's crazy antics aside. It was quite an adventure -- what we have gone through going to the temple and back. It felt like we were kindred spirits. Actually, our expressions and characters does not really differ from each other no matter our color and language. We got along really well and that proved to be true until the next day before I go back to Tokyo and Eduardo's transfer to another hostel.

Did I miss anything? (To Jochen and Eduardo)