A Long Night of Culture Shock
My second night in Kyoto was the night I stripped naked in front of ajummas in Japan. But before I talk about that experience in particular, I want to first talk about how I spent my evenings.
photo from onsenjapan.net
Do you ever wonder how I was able to get by and do consecutive days of walking, hiking -- like, do I ever feel sore? Well, I do. I get too hungry at the end of each day. My body especially my legs were all sore from hamstrings to the heels up to the toes.
I feel so lucky that the small hostel I was staying in does have a special bath with tub. By the way, not
that I was that lucky. I remember planning this whole trip months away -- and I specifically chose this hostel because it does have a bath tub because I knew I am going to need it for hot soaks.
I don't know about you, but for me, soaking in hot water can relieve muscle aches. Also, the fact that it is winter in Japan, I really have to take that into consideration. So there, I did take advantage each night -- soaking in 40 degrees hot water. I am not exaggerating here, it may not be exactly 40 degrees but nearly 40. I really pushed myself to endure that kind of temperature so that my muscles would be a bit numb, so to speak, for a few minutes -- to the point that my skin becomes all red.
The nice thing about soaking in really hot water during winter is that it does not stay that hot for too long. The bath has a small jalousie window above the tub itself. It was also magical when the hot steam crawls up and meets the cold mist, and when that very magic touches your skin, ah, I can still feel it to this time -- hot water then cold air is just pure alchemy. Well, this now leads me to tell the real story I want to share with you.
Back to the second night -- this was the day I went to Kinkakuji (The Golden Pavilion) and Ninnaji -- instead of soaking in the hostel, I planned to go to the spa (onsen) "near" our place. The hostel person already told me about this on my first day when he gave me the map of the vicinity. I asked the person at the lobby for the directions going to that spa. He gave me another map, a bigger one, a bit detailed but told me that the spa does not have a signage outside its building.
At first I did not think it would be that difficult to find since it's near anyway. He said it is open until 0:00. I took my time then and not really concerned of getting lost. But I really did get lost.
It was past 9 pm already and I see the few commercial establishments in the area shut down their lights one by one. Most of the way is dark especially when according to the "map", I needed to turn left to a certain alley. Alleys are so dark, and even these are supposed to be residential areas, funny that seeing a human being was so rare. It was only 9 pm.
I see houses with gates, some are wooden. One time I went back to the main road and crossed a few streets, I saw this one girl on her bicycle -- she is probably in high school as I noticed she wore a uniform and has a backpack. I asked for directions. I told her the name of the onsen but apparently, she seems to be not to recognize it.
She looked at my map and she seemed a bit confused, too. She pulled out her smartphone and looked at Google maps. It took us a while and she still can't tell me anything. I felt bad for having disturbed her on her way home. She probably is too tired already. I thanked her still though of course.
Next, I asked a couple more, no luck. I tried to go back near the hostel and tried to follow the map from the beginning. No luck there. I was thinking this time that there was something wrong with that map.
I found another young boy, probably in his teens. I was looking at my watch and it is already past 10 pm. I thought this guy probably did some project somewhere or worked part-time in a convenient store. I smiled and asked for help. I am glad that most of them can understand English. They do not reply in English but they seem to understand me nevertheless.
He did almost the same thing the other girl did. Looked at my map and then pulled out his phone to double check. It took him a few minutes and I was actually surprised to see that he somehow came to a conclusion -- and was pointing me somewhere, like he was saying "over there". I was like "but where -- there?" I assume he saw my frustrated look. I want to cry actually. Many times while I was on the streets and alone, with only a few vehicles on the road, that I thought of just giving it all up and going back to the hostel.
He then walked fast, actually a bit fast for his built -- leading me the way. I think we were just the same height but he walked like the wind I almost could not catch up. I followed him almost running as I was very afraid to lose sight of the only person on the dark alley. I forgot to tell you that before I saw the girl I talked about earlier, I ran like for my life when I was walking along a very creepy alley.
Going back to the story, the boy was able to lead me to the right place -- a spa tucked in a small alley and yes, without a signage -- no there actually was a signage but a small one and in Japanese characters. I want to cry when we arrived and I wanted to hug him. But of course I did not because I do not want to come across as rude. I am conservative that way.
The Onsen
Exhilarated was an understatement for how I felt while removing my shoes and putting it in the shoe locker. I was smiling wide because I finally was ticking this off my bucket list for this trip. So far, everything was going along as planned.
I did not expect to be shocked as I have prepared myself on this while planning. I knew women are going to be naked. I really did not care. What I did not prepare for is that people are actually going to stare at you. I thought, why?? (ha ha ha!) As a result, I became so conscious.
Japanese locals generally do not even glance at a foreigner like me on the subway or at a restaurant unless you actually talk to them. Now I realize onsen is an exception. They were so curious. What they did not realize is that I am just as curious as they are.
"Go over there and wash yourself first", an ahjumma told me -- or I think is what she said. She was pointing to the open shower area where you can find shampoo and liquid soap free to use. I was testing one foot in one empty pool at that moment but I don't actually have a choice but to follow her, follow the rules.
I sat on one of the mini stools and took a proper bath. Afterwards, I felt cold so I went inside the small sauna. It was an experience on its own and definitely at a different level!
I was first surprised to see the huge and probably the biggest I will ever see in my entire life -- a huge smolder of iron rod (I am not sure how to call it -- nagbabagang bakal) -- and like it is just in front of our face. The fact that the room is small does not help. I find it intimidating even after a while. And I am not sure that I will ever get used to it even if I were to go back another time.
The ahjumma who talked to me earlier again approached me and told me to put a towel on my head like her. I went outside to get my towel. I went back inside but I did not stay for long, to be honest, because I felt that my face is going to burn literally. And also because I started to have difficulty breathing.
I tried to dip in an empty pool but I was really feeling weird already. Maybe I am just hungry and started to quiver. I did not like the smell of the spa, too -- like smell of chlorine of some sort. I saw to the far left there was a outdoor onsen and I went there as soon as I saw it.
Remember what I told you about the magical mist created by the steam and the cold air? It was the same magic in this one. Plus, unlike the indoor pool, I was able to breathe really nicely outside.
I love how my nose is moist and cold while my body is soaked in hot water. You have got to experience it. I'm glad I did. It is very out of this world -- like something that only happens in Ranma 1/2. I almost gave up finding the onsen, right?
I shared the small outdoor onsen with a few young ladies, probably in their teens. I was thinking that maybe they just finished their part-time jobs or school projects as it was a weekday.
One can only be amazed of their way of life -- and these girls -- I know how busy life in Japan could be because of the economy's long-standing recession -- but they just know how to unwind and relax. They make time for themselves. It is really not difficult to learn their culture because they just teach you, even unknowingly. All you need to do is pay attention.
Do you ever wonder how I was able to get by and do consecutive days of walking, hiking -- like, do I ever feel sore? Well, I do. I get too hungry at the end of each day. My body especially my legs were all sore from hamstrings to the heels up to the toes.
I feel so lucky that the small hostel I was staying in does have a special bath with tub. By the way, not
that I was that lucky. I remember planning this whole trip months away -- and I specifically chose this hostel because it does have a bath tub because I knew I am going to need it for hot soaks.
I don't know about you, but for me, soaking in hot water can relieve muscle aches. Also, the fact that it is winter in Japan, I really have to take that into consideration. So there, I did take advantage each night -- soaking in 40 degrees hot water. I am not exaggerating here, it may not be exactly 40 degrees but nearly 40. I really pushed myself to endure that kind of temperature so that my muscles would be a bit numb, so to speak, for a few minutes -- to the point that my skin becomes all red.
The nice thing about soaking in really hot water during winter is that it does not stay that hot for too long. The bath has a small jalousie window above the tub itself. It was also magical when the hot steam crawls up and meets the cold mist, and when that very magic touches your skin, ah, I can still feel it to this time -- hot water then cold air is just pure alchemy. Well, this now leads me to tell the real story I want to share with you.
Back to the second night -- this was the day I went to Kinkakuji (The Golden Pavilion) and Ninnaji -- instead of soaking in the hostel, I planned to go to the spa (onsen) "near" our place. The hostel person already told me about this on my first day when he gave me the map of the vicinity. I asked the person at the lobby for the directions going to that spa. He gave me another map, a bigger one, a bit detailed but told me that the spa does not have a signage outside its building.
At first I did not think it would be that difficult to find since it's near anyway. He said it is open until 0:00. I took my time then and not really concerned of getting lost. But I really did get lost.
It was past 9 pm already and I see the few commercial establishments in the area shut down their lights one by one. Most of the way is dark especially when according to the "map", I needed to turn left to a certain alley. Alleys are so dark, and even these are supposed to be residential areas, funny that seeing a human being was so rare. It was only 9 pm.
I see houses with gates, some are wooden. One time I went back to the main road and crossed a few streets, I saw this one girl on her bicycle -- she is probably in high school as I noticed she wore a uniform and has a backpack. I asked for directions. I told her the name of the onsen but apparently, she seems to be not to recognize it.
She looked at my map and she seemed a bit confused, too. She pulled out her smartphone and looked at Google maps. It took us a while and she still can't tell me anything. I felt bad for having disturbed her on her way home. She probably is too tired already. I thanked her still though of course.
Next, I asked a couple more, no luck. I tried to go back near the hostel and tried to follow the map from the beginning. No luck there. I was thinking this time that there was something wrong with that map.
I found another young boy, probably in his teens. I was looking at my watch and it is already past 10 pm. I thought this guy probably did some project somewhere or worked part-time in a convenient store. I smiled and asked for help. I am glad that most of them can understand English. They do not reply in English but they seem to understand me nevertheless.
He did almost the same thing the other girl did. Looked at my map and then pulled out his phone to double check. It took him a few minutes and I was actually surprised to see that he somehow came to a conclusion -- and was pointing me somewhere, like he was saying "over there". I was like "but where -- there?" I assume he saw my frustrated look. I want to cry actually. Many times while I was on the streets and alone, with only a few vehicles on the road, that I thought of just giving it all up and going back to the hostel.
He then walked fast, actually a bit fast for his built -- leading me the way. I think we were just the same height but he walked like the wind I almost could not catch up. I followed him almost running as I was very afraid to lose sight of the only person on the dark alley. I forgot to tell you that before I saw the girl I talked about earlier, I ran like for my life when I was walking along a very creepy alley.
Going back to the story, the boy was able to lead me to the right place -- a spa tucked in a small alley and yes, without a signage -- no there actually was a signage but a small one and in Japanese characters. I want to cry when we arrived and I wanted to hug him. But of course I did not because I do not want to come across as rude. I am conservative that way.
The Onsen
Exhilarated was an understatement for how I felt while removing my shoes and putting it in the shoe locker. I was smiling wide because I finally was ticking this off my bucket list for this trip. So far, everything was going along as planned.
I did not expect to be shocked as I have prepared myself on this while planning. I knew women are going to be naked. I really did not care. What I did not prepare for is that people are actually going to stare at you. I thought, why?? (ha ha ha!) As a result, I became so conscious.
Japanese locals generally do not even glance at a foreigner like me on the subway or at a restaurant unless you actually talk to them. Now I realize onsen is an exception. They were so curious. What they did not realize is that I am just as curious as they are.
"Go over there and wash yourself first", an ahjumma told me -- or I think is what she said. She was pointing to the open shower area where you can find shampoo and liquid soap free to use. I was testing one foot in one empty pool at that moment but I don't actually have a choice but to follow her, follow the rules.
I sat on one of the mini stools and took a proper bath. Afterwards, I felt cold so I went inside the small sauna. It was an experience on its own and definitely at a different level!
I was first surprised to see the huge and probably the biggest I will ever see in my entire life -- a huge smolder of iron rod (I am not sure how to call it -- nagbabagang bakal) -- and like it is just in front of our face. The fact that the room is small does not help. I find it intimidating even after a while. And I am not sure that I will ever get used to it even if I were to go back another time.
The ahjumma who talked to me earlier again approached me and told me to put a towel on my head like her. I went outside to get my towel. I went back inside but I did not stay for long, to be honest, because I felt that my face is going to burn literally. And also because I started to have difficulty breathing.
I tried to dip in an empty pool but I was really feeling weird already. Maybe I am just hungry and started to quiver. I did not like the smell of the spa, too -- like smell of chlorine of some sort. I saw to the far left there was a outdoor onsen and I went there as soon as I saw it.
Remember what I told you about the magical mist created by the steam and the cold air? It was the same magic in this one. Plus, unlike the indoor pool, I was able to breathe really nicely outside.
I love how my nose is moist and cold while my body is soaked in hot water. You have got to experience it. I'm glad I did. It is very out of this world -- like something that only happens in Ranma 1/2. I almost gave up finding the onsen, right?
I shared the small outdoor onsen with a few young ladies, probably in their teens. I was thinking that maybe they just finished their part-time jobs or school projects as it was a weekday.
One can only be amazed of their way of life -- and these girls -- I know how busy life in Japan could be because of the economy's long-standing recession -- but they just know how to unwind and relax. They make time for themselves. It is really not difficult to learn their culture because they just teach you, even unknowingly. All you need to do is pay attention.
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